Robert Parker vs Romanee-Conti vs Penfolds Grange

Tsogolo la oyambitsa ndi losautsa, ndipo tsogolo la otsutsa limakhala lovuta.

Pamene "Mfumu ya Vinyo" Robert Parker anali ndi mphamvu, kalembedwe kameneka m'dziko la vinyo kunali kupanga vinyo wokhala ndi migolo ya oak yolemera, kukoma kolemera, kununkhira kwa zipatso zambiri ndi mowa wambiri womwe Parker ankakonda. Chifukwa chakuti vinyo wotereyu amagwirizana ndi zimene anthu ambiri amachita m’makampani a vinyo, n’zosavuta kuti munthu alandire mphoto m’maphokoso osiyanasiyana. Parker akuyimira mayendedwe amakampani ogulitsa vinyo, akuyimira mtundu wolemera komanso wosadziletsa wa vinyo.

Vinyo wamtunduwu akhoza kukhala kalembedwe ka Parker, kotero kuti nthawiyo imatchedwa "Nthawi ya Parker". Parker anali mfumu yeniyeni ya vinyo panthawiyo. Anali ndi ufulu wokhala ndi moyo ndi imfa chifukwa cha vinyo. Malingana ngati atsegula pakamwa pake, akhoza kukweza mwachindunji mbiri ya malo opangira mphesa pamlingo wapamwamba. Kalembedwe kake kanali kamene ankapikisana naye.

Koma nthaŵi zonse pali anthu amene amafuna kutsutsa, amene sadzakhala ofala, ndi amene amamatira ku mwambo umene makolo awo anasiya ndi kusatsatira mkhalidwewo, ngakhale vinyo amene amatulutsa sangagulitsidwe pamtengo wokwera; anthu amenewa ndi amene “amafuna kutulutsa vinyo wabwino kuchokera pansi pa mitima yawo”. Eni ake a Chateau, ndi oyambitsa komanso otsutsa pansi pa mikhalidwe ya vinyo yomwe ilipo.

Ena mwa iwo ndi eni ake a vinyo amene amangotsatira mwambo: Ndidzachita zomwe agogo anga anachita. Mwachitsanzo, Burgundy wakhala akupanga vinyo wokongola komanso wovuta. Romanee-Conti wamba amayimira vinyo wokongola komanso wosakhwima. kalembedwe kamphesa.

Ena a iwo ndi eni winery omwe ali olimba mtima komanso anzeru, ndipo samamatira ku chiphunzitso chapitachi: mwachitsanzo, popanga vinyo, amaumirira kuti asagwiritse ntchito yisiti yamalonda, koma kugwiritsa ntchito yisiti yachikhalidwe, yomwe ili yofananira ndi ma wineries otchuka kwambiri. ku Rioja, ku Spain; ngakhale vinyo woteroyo adzakhala ndi "zosasangalatsa" " kulawa, koma zovuta ndi khalidwe lidzakwera pamwamba;

Amakhalanso ndi otsutsa malamulo omwe alipo, monga mfumu ya vinyo ya ku Australia ndi wopangira mowa wa Penfolds Grange, Max Schubert. Atabwerera ku Australia ataphunzira njira zopangira vinyo kuchokera ku Bordeaux, adakhulupirira kuti Syrah waku Australia amathanso kukhala ndi fungo labwino la ukalamba ndikuwonetsa mikhalidwe yodabwitsa akakalamba.

Pamene adapanga Grange koyamba, adanyozedwa kwambiri, ndipo ngakhale malo opangira mphesa adamulamula kuti asiye kupanga Grange. Koma Schubert ankakhulupirira mphamvu ya nthawi. Sanatsatire chigamulo cha malo opangira mphesa, koma adapanga mwachinsinsi, adaphika, ndikukalamba; ndiyeno anapereka zotsalazo ku nthawi yake. M'zaka za m'ma 1960, kumapeto kwa zaka za m'ma 1960, Grange adatsimikizira kukalamba kwamphamvu kwa vinyo waku Australia, ndipo Australia inalinso ndi mfumu yawoyawo.

Grange akuyimira vinyo wotsutsana ndi chikhalidwe, wopanduka, wosatsutsa.

Anthu angayamikire akatswiri opanga zinthu, koma ndi ochepa amene amawalipira.

Zatsopano mu vinyo zimakhala zovuta kwambiri. Mwachitsanzo, njira yothyola mphesa ndi kusankha kutola pamanja kapena kutola makina? Mwachitsanzo, njira yopondereza madzi a mphesa, kodi amapanikizidwa ndi zimayambira kapena mofewa? Chitsanzo china ndi kugwiritsa ntchito yisiti. Anthu ambiri amavomereza kuti yisiti yachibadwidwe (palibe yisiti ina yomwe imawonjezeredwa popanga vinyo, ndipo yisiti yonyamulidwa ndi mphesayo imaloledwa kupesa) imatha kupesa fungo lovuta komanso losinthika, koma malo opangira vinyo amakhala ndi zofunikira za msika. Ankayenera kuganizira yisiti zamalonda zomwe zingasunge mawonekedwe a winery mosasinthasintha.

Anthu ambiri amangoganizira za ubwino wotola pamanja, koma safuna kulipira.

Kupita patsogolo pang'ono, tsopano ndi nthawi ya Parker (kuwerengera kuchoka kwa Parker's retirement), ndipo ogulitsa vinyo ambiri akuyamba kuganizira za njira zawo zakale zopangira vinyo. Pamapeto pake, kodi tiyenera kupanga masitayelo athunthu ndi osadziletsa a "zamakono" pamsika, kapena tipange vinyo wonyezimira komanso wosakhwima, kapena masitayelo anzeru komanso ongoyerekeza?

Chigawo cha Oregon ku United States chinapereka yankho. Anapanga Pinot Noir yomwe ndi yokongola komanso yosakhwima ngati Burgundy ku France; Hawke's Bay ku New Zealand anapereka yankho. Adapanganso Pinot Noir mu New Zealand wosayamikiridwa The Bordeaux style of the first growth.

"Classified Chateau" ya Hawke's Bay, ndidzalemba nkhani yapadera yokhudza New Zealand pambuyo pake.

Kum'mwera kwa European Pyrenees, malo otchedwa Rioja, palinso malo opangira vinyo omwe amapereka yankho:

Vinyo wa ku Spain amapangitsa anthu kuganiza kuti migolo yambiri ya oak yagwiritsidwa ntchito. Ngati miyezi 6 sikwanira, idzakhala miyezi 12, ndipo ngati miyezi 12 sikwanira, idzakhala miyezi 18, chifukwa anthu ammudzi amakonda fungo lapamwamba lomwe limabweretsedwa ndi ukalamba wambiri.

Koma pali winery amene akufuna kukana. Iwo apanga vinyo amene mungamvetse pamene mwamwa. Lili ndi fungo la zipatso zatsopano komanso zophulika, zomwe zimakhala zonunkhira komanso zolemera kwambiri. Vinyo wachikhalidwe.

Ndiwosiyana ndi vinyo wofiira wamtundu wamtundu wa New World, koma wofanana ndi mawonekedwe oyera, olemera komanso ochititsa chidwi a New Zealand. Ngati ndigwiritsa ntchito mawu awiri pofotokoza, zikanakhala "zoyera", fungo lake ndi loyera kwambiri, ndipo mapeto ake ndi oyera kwambiri.

Iyi ndi Rioja Tempranillo yodzaza ndi kupanduka komanso kudabwa.

Zinatenga New Zealand Wine Association zaka 20 potsiriza kudziwa chinenero chawo zotsatsira, amene ndi "woyera", amene ndi kalembedwe, winemaking nzeru, ndi maganizo a wineries onse ku New Zealand. Ndikuganiza kuti uyu ndi vinyo "woyera" waku Spain wokhala ndi malingaliro aku New Zealand.